Homestead Green Building: Houseboats

Wait a second.  Houseboats?  Green?  Homestead?  Actually, yes!  Ok, so maybe not in the strictest sense.  But absolutely, yes, houseboats can be green, and yes, they can be used as a homestead.  If you want to be on your own and off the grid, this absolutely is an option.  If you have a piece of property that has a lake, river, or shoreline, or even if you don't truly want to be tied down to one place, a houseboat can be your answer.  I'm actually a little excited about this option.  I've been looking forward to this particular post for quite some time now.  The options are so much more varied than you might think at first.  Let me show you.

So when you hear the word "houseboat", your mind may automatically go to a movie such as the classic "Houseboat" with Sophia Loren and Cary Grant, or even "Sleepless in Seattle".  And the truth is that both are very real and true forms that a houseboat can take.  It can be something as simple as an actual boat that you live on, to something more like a traditional house that floats, and so many other styles in between.  Now, obviously, it must be built to float and/or move on water, and the living quarters must be built in such a way that constant moisture is not a problem.  For that reason, a material such as cob or adobe might not be at the top of your list.  If you're not out on the open ocean, it may still be an option, but it will almost certainly require a bit more upkeep.  But it can be built from sustainable timber or bamboo.  Now, of course, the interior can be whatever you want.  The upside is that for your power, that can most certainly be a green.  The obvious here would be hydro power.  But just about any of the options out there (except for maybe geothermal) would be easy to integrate into a houseboat.

Now, you can buy a houseboat, either brand spanking new or as a fixer-upper.  You can buy a boat and retrofit it into a houseboat.  Or you can build completely from scratch.  Now, there are laws and codes that you must learn.  Depending on the size and structure of your houseboat, there may be different laws that affect you.  They can also vary greatly from state to state, and region to region.  Everything from how long you can stay docked at a specific location, to whether your houseboat is considered a boat or a residence (which is very important in regards to maritime laws, and search and seizure possibilities), and many places have very specific laws when it comes to environmental impact.  That last one shouldn't be of too much concern for you if you are going green.  The engine can be green if you utilize an alternative fuel.  Even waste can be dealt with in a green manner- composting toilets, incinerating toilets, or a really good filtration system is absolutely a must.  Just an aside here, an incinerating toilet is not something that I think I would consider.  Think about it for a minute: literally burning your waste..... the smell!  Not to mention the clean-up.  Of course, I have no direct experience here, but if anyone has any info they'd like to offer on these things, I'd be more than happy to hear about it.

Although it might seem an odd thought at first, a houseboat can even be ideal for growing your own food.  You can do this by having a green roof, a green deck, hydroponics, or an aquaponic set-up.  Any of these ideas would make gardening on your houseboat a relatively simple task.  And with all the ideas and possibilities that have been written about concerning gardening for small spaces, it just makes it all the better.

In short, a houseboat can be an amazing option for going off grid.  As with any of the other options we've already looked at, you can get as creative as you like, make it as large or as small as you'd like, and let your creativity run wild.  While the actual building or purchase of a houseboat may cost a bit more than some of the other options we've looked at, without the additional purchase of land, the overall cost could even out, or even be a bit less expensive in the long run.  It all depends on you- what you put into it.  I've included a list of reference sites for purchasing a houseboat, finding design ideas and blueprints, and even some sources for laws and codes.  I hope you find them informative.  I know that I've not gone into great detail here, but the main reason behind that is that there are just too many options to consider to get it all condensed into one simple blog post.  Happy researching!

Pre-made green houseboats:

http://www.maxim.com/maxim-man/jet-capsule-unidentified-floating-object-concept-home-2016-04

http://firmtec.com/eng/projects

http://www.insidehook.com/nation/big-beautiful-solar-houseboats-waterlovt

http://dornob.com/self-sufficient-houseboat-lets-you-leave-civilization-behind/

http://www.greenecoservices.com/nine-eco-friendly-houseboats/

http://weburbanist.com/2008/02/20/17-extreme-houseboats-and-houseboat-designs-luxury-marine-habitats-to-humble-floating-homes/

Plans, blueprints, and ideas:

http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/40-foot-shantyboat-houseboat.html

http://tinyhousetalk.com/micro-houseboat-you-can-build/

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/house-boat-plans.html

http://www.travelchannel.com/shows/extreme-houseboats/video/how-to-build-a-houseboat

http://buildahouseboat.com/building-a-houseboat/

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3035438/Family-lives-AMAZING-artistically-vibrant-self-sufficient-floating-home-coast-Canada-miles-civilization.html

http://www.treehugger.com/green-architecture/self-sufficient-solar-powered-barge-and-houseboat.html

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/cheap-green-solar-houseboat-plans-part-1.html

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/solar-powered-houseboats.html

http://www.treehugger.com/tiny-houses/geodesic-houseboat-michael-weekes.html

http://inhabitat.com/the-tiny-sweet-pea-is-the-first-houseboat-to-be-certified-by-build-green/

http://inhabitat.com/these-floating-jellyfish-gardens-purify-polluted-water-and-air-while-growing-food/

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/homebuilt-houseboat.html

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/kevin-mccloud-sails-fully-sea-faring-cardboard-houseboat-down-thames-a7008471.html

http://tinyhousetalk.com/rosebud-tiny-house-boat/

http://www.naazkashmir.com/blog/tag/deluxe-houseboat-in-kashmir/

http://weburbanist.com/2008/08/11/15-more-extreme-houseboats-and-houseboat-designs/

http://crazyfreelancer.com/10-unreal-houseboats-will-set-imagination-adrift/9/

Codes and Laws:

http://www.seattlepi.com/local/article/Seattle-to-houseboat-scofflaws-Follow-rules-or-4119600.php

http://www.houseboatmagazine.com/2010/11/the-laws-of-living-aboard

http://www.npr.org/2013/01/15/169452244/supreme-court-rules-that-houseboats-are-houses-not-boats

http://peopleof.oureverydaylife.com/legal-live-houseboat-river-9793.html

https://www.nps.gov/commercialservices/docs/concessioner%20tools/USCG_Vessel_Checklist_Houseboat.pdf

http://www.seattlepi.com/local/article/Seattle-to-houseboat-scofflaws-Follow-rules-or-4119600.php

Homestead Green Building: Bamboo

When you hear the word bamboo, what images flash through your mind?  Maybe a tropical paradise.  An open house where the warm breezes can easily come rushing through.  Not surprising.  Bamboo is used a lot in construction of homes and other buildings, but primarily in areas like Asia, islands of the Pacific, and, more recently, in Central and South America.  It's taking it's time coming into it's own here in the U.S. and other places.  But it is coming.  And for very good reason.  Let's look.

Bamboo might just be the master of disguise.  It is a grass.  It is one of, if not the, fastest growing woody plant on the planet.  Some species can grow more than three feet in a single day.  Generally, it comes to full growth within nine months to a year.  It can be stronger than steel, and yet is so flexible, that buildings made from it can withstand earthquakes and hurricanes.  And it is extremely flexible.  In it's full form, it can be used for walls and/or a support structure.  It can be cut in half, lengthwise, to create siding and flooring.  The fibers inside of it can be made into a natural insulation, or even into clothing.  It is a remarkable plant.

The downside of bamboo... well, that just depends on your perspective, I guess.  As a plant, it is extremely vulnerable to insects and mold unless it is treated as soon as it is harvested.  Once treated, it is, however, virtually impervious to these same issues.  You can grow your own.  Just be sure to make sure it is the best species for use in building, and that it can be grown in your climate.  (For a breakdown of best species for building, look here.)  There are some species that grow in more northern climates, but for the most part, bamboo prefers warmer, tropical regions.  For this reason, you may have to have your bamboo shipped in.  That can easily add up into quite the pretty penny.  If you are looking to keep your costs to a bare minimum, that is something you'd definitely have to consider.  Also, you should never use young stalks.  If you want the structure to last, the bamboo should be at least 3-4 years old and completely dried out prior to use.  Bamboo cannot be put together the same way you would a traditional timber-frame house.  Do not use nails.  The bamboo will split, and, result in a less than stable support.  It should either be lashed together using old world techniques, or possibly larger bolts, so long as they are used in the right ways at the right places.  Use the natural nodes of the bamboo. See here, here, and here for various joining techniques.

Most sources I've come across say that it can be used for homes in colder climates, so long as a double wall construction technique is used.  Basically, that means a two separate bamboo walls, an exterior and an interior, with some sort of insulation in between.  This source, however, says that there is a concern of fluctuating temperatures and humidity levels causing the bamboo to crack.  That is something important that would need further clarification from a certified builder if you are looking to build in a colder climate.

As for building codes, here in the U.S., I've not been able to find any information on current updates to codes that cover using bamboo as the primary construction framework.  That's not to say that it's not out there, I've just not been able to find it.  And, as so many areas have varying codes, not just from state to state, but also from county to county, and sometimes even from town to town, you want to make sure that you have all the answers you need before making the jump into building with bamboo.  Make sure to contact your building authority to find out exactly what the specifics are.  Or, you may be able to contact a local architect or builder that specializes in green home construction. They may be a bit easier to get information out of, as many code enforcement offices can be quite hesitant when it comes to green construction.

Now, when it comes to insulation, if you don't need much, you can use the bamboo in and of itself, as the natural hollow core creates a "dead air" space.  That space creates a measure of insulation, although maybe not much.  (I haven't been able to find anything relating to an R value.)  However, if more is needed, you can use the double wall technique and fill with the insulation of your choice.  There are manufacturers of bamboo insulation, but most of them are overseas.  So, again, shipping costs will play a part in your decision there.

Bamboo is a beautiful and sustainable building material.  If you don't have a supplier close, or cannot grow it yourself, it can get a bit on the expensive side.  But it is flexible enough to be able to be used in almost every aspect of the building process.  It is a product that has great potential.  A time may come when it is more readily available and costs will drop.  For now, I would say that the cost is the primary hindrance that would keep me from using this amazing plant.  I leave you with a collection of informative sites from people more knowledgeable than I, that may be able to answer more questions you may have concerning utilizing bamboo in construction, as well as new and upcoming development ideas for uses of bamboo.

http://inhabitat.com/beautiful-bamboo-living-houses-take-two-days-to-build/

http://webecoist.momtastic.com/2011/06/20/building-with-bamboo-13-super-sustainable-structures/

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/bamboo.htm

http://www.bamboogrove.com/bamboo-houses.html

http://www.communityarchitectsnetwork.info/upload/opensources/public/file_14062013022345.pdf

http://www.ehow.com/how_4613878_build-bamboo-house.html

https://www.niftyhomestead.com/blog/bamboo-buildings/

https://www.dezeen.com/2015/11/04/bamboo-fibre-stronger-than-steel-dirk-hebel-world-architecture-festival-2015/

http://www.jeccomposites.com/knowledge/international-composites-news/development-bamboo-fiber-composites-china

http://news.mit.edu/2014/researchers-study-bamboo-for-engineered-building-material-0723

http://ceramics.org/ceramic-tech-today/biomaterials/could-a-bamboo-fiber-composite-replace-steel-reinforcements-in-concrete

http://www.mse.umd.edu/sites/default/files/documents/undergrad/enma490/Team%20Bamboo%20Fiber%20Composite-Report.pdf

http://www.ripublication.com/ijcer_spl/ijcerv5n3spl_08.pdf

http://www.resource-fiber.com/why-bamboo

http://design490.org/bamboo-the-new-building-material/

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/229140175_Bamboo_fibre_reinforced_biocomposites_A_review

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0261306914005135

http://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/10477/steel-vs-bamboo-strengths-in-various-directions-orientations-tensile-compres

http://www.newsweek.com/stronger-steel-85533

http://www.archdaily.com/513736/bamboo-a-viable-alternative-to-steel-reinforcement

Green Homestead Building: Hempcrete

Hempcrete is a fantastic building material that has suffered a bad rap until recently.  Hemp has been used in building for centuries.  It was outlawed here in the US roughly 60 years ago as it was assumed to be the same plant that is used to get high.  However, while they are both strains of the Cannabis family, they are not the same plant.  Hemp contains so little THC (the psychoactive chemical that produces that high feeling), that it is simply not possible to get any sort of high from it.  Now, being that I'm not here to discuss the commonly smoked variety of cannabis, let's just get right to the nitty gritty.

Hemp is a fast growing crop that is finally making a come back.  It is truly versatile in that it can be used as medicine, fuel, clothing, and so much more.  It grows so fast that weeds cannot even take root.  It needs no pesticides.  It is truly a very environmentally friendly crop.  As a building material, it is natural, strong, and can last many many many years.  When mixed and set correctly, it is mold, fire, and pest resistant.  It provides incredible insulation AND thermal mass in one, whereas most of the other green building techniques we've looked at are either one or the other.  It has an R value of around 25 per foot of material, and has the thermal mass so that it can contain and slowly release heat/cooling into the interior of the building.

To build with hempcrete is a relatively simple process.  The core fibers, or "shiv" is dried, and then mixed with water and a binder, generally lime.  I have seen some recipes that also add cement.  Most don't.  It is not used as the sole material of the walls.  There must be a post and beam frame of some kind.  The hempcrete is then put in place using a techniques similar to that used in rammed earth.  A shutter, or framework, is temporarily put in place.  The hemp mix is then poured and compacted in.  The shutters can be removed within hours.  At that point, the hempcrete is solid enough to stand on it's own, but it will still need up to two days to completely dry.  It can also be sprayed into place in the frame.  It can be used in floors, walls, and ceilings.  It cannot, however, be used in underground or earth bermed structures.  It needs to breathe, so airflow on both sides of the wall is critical.  Different suppliers of the binders will recommend the amount of water.  Hemp will absorb part of the water, and the lime needs water to properly set.  When in doubt, always refer to instructions and/or professionals to get the right mix.

For the plumbing and electrical, those should be put into place before the hempcrete is filled in.  It just makes things easier and more efficient in the overall process.  If you want to have a type of in-floor heating system, that can be applied within the hempcrete, as well.  Once the walls have dried, a render is then placed on the outside, with a final coat of lime.  The interior walls can either be left as is, or covered with a lime and/or clay finish.  But, just as with other green building styles, whatever you use for the finishes, it must be a natural breathable material.  I cannot stress enough, it must be able to breathe.  Do not use any sealers or paints that cannot breathe.

Until recently, hemp providers were difficult to come by, at least here in the US.  Thankfully, that is changing.  Hempcrete is an amazing material.  Once the foundation and framing has been done, a hempcrete structure can come together fairly quickly.  If you want a home that is fast, environmentally friendly, and little upkeep, hempcrete may be the right choice for you.

As with all the other methods I've discussed, I am by no means an expert.  I'm just here to provide enough information to give you a jumping off point for further research.  Learn as much as you can, and attend workshops whenever possible.  Following is a rather lengthy list of online resources for your perusing pleasure.

http://www.offgridquest.com/homes-dwellings/building-methods/hempcrete-the-astounding-benefits-of-usi

http://www.hemp-technologies.com/resources/Simple-Hempcrete-Binder-Recipe.pdf

http://endeavourcentre.org/2014/11/building-with-hempcrete-or-hemp-lime/

http://thelaststraw.org/building-hempcrete-hemp-lime-essential-tips-beginner-part-2/

http://www.americanhempllc.com/hempcrete

http://hempsteads.info/build-hemp

http://www.naturalbuildingblog.com/hempcrete-growing-your-own-house/

https://www.ukhempcrete.com/hempcrete-buildings-thermal-performance-and-costs/

http://hempcretehouse.coffeecup.com/

https://www.greenrushdaily.com/2016/04/09/hempcrete-building/

http://hempuse.com/?page_id=487

http://hempsteads.info/qualities/2013/hemcrete-for-basements

http://www.inmatteria.com/2014/10/20/in-review-the-hempcrete-book-designing-and-building-with-hemp-lime/

http://hempsteads.info/qualities/2013/hemp-insulation-r-value

http://www.ialtenergy.com/hempcrete.html

http://www.producer.com/2014/05/hempcrete-homes-economical/

http://www.bath.ac.uk/ace/research/cicm/news-and-events/files/BIOMATERIALS_AND_BINDERS_-_Lanos.pdf

http://www.collective-evolution.com/2013/02/03/hempcrete-worlds-strongest-building-material/

http://dailytwocents.com/what-is-hempcrete/

https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:722306/FULLTEXT01.pdf

http://www.floridahempalliance.com/

Homestead Green Building: Papercrete

Papercrete.  Yes, it is exactly what it sounds like: building with paper.  This is one of the newer ideas in the green building plethora of ideas.  Quite frankly, I'm on the fence with this one.  But seeing as how it does exist, and it is gaining traction, I thought it would be worth talking about.  While originally developed in the 1920's, it was pretty much forgotten about until the 1980's.  That's when it started really picking up followers and builders.

Sometimes referred to as padobe, paperadobe, or fibercrete, among others, the basic recipe is paper and water.  Most fans of this method also add Portland cement. I'll get a bit into different recipes and uses here in a minute.  I think the best description I came across when researching this was "industrial paper mache'".  It is a great recycling method.  Paper, cardboard, and I've even read about people that throw plastic and other items into the mix.  The mix used can be just about as unique as the person who mixes it.  Mainly, it depends primarily on what exactly you're doing with it.  As just the paper and water, it can be used as insulation or a finishing plaster.  If you add the cement, it can form solid bricks, and have load-bearing capabilities to hold a roof.

When the mix has cement, or other non-paper materials, it also dries faster and shrinks less.  A simple paper/water mix will shrink by as much as 20%.  Add cement, and the shrinkage reduces by 5-10%.  It really doesn't sound like much, but it can add up quickly, in work amount and cost.  You will have to buy the cement, if you choose to use it.  If you choose not to use it, you will have to come up with another method for the load-bearing walls.

The recipe of water, paper and cement, generally has an R value of 2-3 per inch.  So if you build a 12" thick wall, you're looking at an R value of roughly 24-36.  Pretty good, I'd say.  Now, most of that insulation comes from the air pockets that are created as the water evaporates out.  That can be affected by anything else you throw in there.  Some people will add sand or clay to the mix.  This will add weight, make it denser, and add some thermal mass, but cuts down on the insulating value.  With the paper, you can also add other fibrous material.  After all, it is the fibers and cellulose in the paper that gives it the strength.  What you add is up to you.  Of course, one of the main considerations you need to make when determining which recipe to use is climate.  That will determine how much thermal mass vs insulation you may need.

Being that it is paper, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.  It should not be used underground.  It will decompose.  It is also very susceptible to moisture.  So, if you're going to use it as your exterior walls or in a bathroom, kitchen, etc, then some form of water resistant coating, such as lime, will need to be added.  And as with other green building methods, it needs a good stemwall at the base to keep the papercrete from soaking up ground moisture.

Papercrete has some great benefits.  We've already covered the recycling aspect.  But it is also relatively inexpensive, it is light enough for one person to be able to lift and move blocks, and can be easily cut, molded, drilled, or otherwise shaped when using only water, paper, and even cement.  It can still be done when adding sand or clay, but it will wear the tools down much faster.  It can also be made in blocks, slabs, or even dome forms.  It is quite versatile.

It's downside comes in it's lack of water resistance, and the question of whether or not it is truly green.  Opponents would say that using the cement is counter-intuitive to being green.  But it could be argued that it depends a lot on just how much you are using in comparison to recycled materials.  But there's also the question of the paper itself.  While recycling it is definitely a good thing, I would suggest to watch just what kind of paper you're using.  Some papers use different chemicals both in the ink, glue (in cardboard), and in any additional coatings that are used (ie. to make it glossy).  Make sure it's nothing you can't live with having in your walls.  Also, if you choose not to use cement, clay, sand or other additives, it increases the papercrete's vulnerability to insects, rodents, and fire.

Papercrete has many possibilities.  What you choose to do with it will determine what you put into it.  There are many areas where it is now being taken into consideration in building codes and guidelines.  It can be as green (or not) as you decide it to be.  If this has piqued your interest, here are just a few, of many, sites where you can get more information on the history, techniques, recipes and more from experts and do-it-yourselfer's alike.  Happy researching!

http://www.instructables.com/id/I-Love-Papercrete/

http://www.papercrete.com/

http://www.livinginpaper.com/mixes.htm

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/papercrete/structural.htm

http://www.livinginpaper.com/current.htm

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/articles/papercrete.htm

http://makepapercrete.com/Houses-Made-From-Papercrete.html

Homestead Green Building: Straw Bale

When you first start thinking of building green with natural materials, straw bale is probably one of the first building styles you think of.  It seems to be the most commonly mentioned in green building circles.  There is good reason for that, as straw bale construction has a number of benefits.  Let's take a look.

Straw is a wonderful building material for a number of reasons.  It is, basically, a waste product.  This is not the hay that is used for animal feed.  Animals cannot digest straw.  In actuality, straw is the stalk that comes from pretty much any grain.  Once the grain itself has been harvested, the stalks are baled.  It can be used for animal bedding.  But a great percentage of straw is burned as waste.  By putting it to use in building, less is burned, making it great environmentally.  When it is baled, it is tightly compacted.  This is useful because 1) it provides greater strength, 2) gives it a higher insulating value, 3) animals, such as rodents, find it difficult to nest in it, and 4) less open space for oxygen, making it more fire resistant.  So now, let's break each of those down a bit.

Greater strength.  There are primarily two ways to build with straw bales.  One is using the bales in and of themselves, without any extra framework, and the other is by infilling a traditional type frame with the bales.  As the bales can be used without additional framing, even for load-bearing walls, and in two story builds, this testifies to it's strength.  The downside of this, is that it can make it a bit more difficult, although not impossible, to obtain building permits.  While more and more places are expanding building codes to be inclusive of straw bale construction, many of those do require some sort of framework.  This is one of those times when working closely with code officials will be necessary.  Know your information well, as it may very well be a relatively unknown subject to code enforcement officers.  But built correctly, it can easily last a hundred years or more.  They have even been known to withstand earthquakes.  They are tough buildings.

Higher insulating value.  In any climate, building a structure with good insulation is imperative.  Using standard insulation, anything with a rating of R=19 or higher is considered "super insulated". Tightly compacted straw bales average at about R=2.7 per inch.  And as bales are generally between 16 and 18 inches thick, that would put the overall rating between R=43 and R=48 (according to this).  As you can see, this is a superior insulating material.  That being said, there is practically zero thermal mass, meaning it won't hold heat or cold for extended lengths of time.  That is where a good natural plaster (such as cob or lime) come in.  Adding a good thick layer will give the walls great thermal mass, as well as seal the wall for protection from insects, animals, and excess moisture.  Moisture is the main thing that can be disastrous in a straw bale building.  Proper sealing is absolutely required.  And it must also be breathable.  Modern wall sealants don't allow for this breathing.  So if any moisture has been trapped inside, it won't be able to escape.  Natural plasters are breathable and more forgiving as settling occurs over time.  This prevents cracking in the walls that can, again, let in unwanted moisture.  So why not include a healthy layer of a natural material that not only protects the bales, but also provides thermal mass?

Rodents find it hard to nest in.  Ok, so it's not impossible for them to get in.  But they don't like eating it, as they can't digest it.  When the bales are tightly compacted, it's more difficult for them to get in.  And with a good and proper plaster finish, it greatly reduces the odds of one of these critters getting in there.  And the same goes for insects.  While there may be some already in the straw as your building,  once the plaster goes up, the ones in there cannot escape, and will eventually die.  And new ones will not be able to get in.  Now if you are utilizing a timber framework within which you will be placing the bales, you will have to do something for the possibilities of termites and any other critter that would find wood attractive.  So that is something to keep in mind.

Fire resistant.  This one almost seems like an oxymoron, doesn't it?  Straw?  Fire resistant?  Actually, yes.  Again, this comes from the fact that the straw is so tightly compacted into bales that there is little to no space for oxygen to flow.  And without oxygen, fire cannot live.  And, yet again, the final plaster further protects the straw in case something were to happen.  In fact, tests have shown that properly constructed straw buildings are actually MORE fire resistant than traditional built homes.

Straw bale construction is easily learned, and can be done by the do-it-yourselfer.  It goes surprisingly quickly.  The bales, being the size they are, makes the walls go up very quickly.  Bales can also be used as internal walls if you'd like.  Just remember that that size will take up a bit of floor space, unless you have already planned for that and make the overall structure larger to accommodate that.  Alternatively, one of the other natural building styles we've already discussed can be used for the interior.

Another great aspect of straw bales is that they are almost universally available locally.  If you can become well acquainted with a local farmer, that helps a lot.  You may, however, need to plan out in advance for the next year's harvest, to have the farmer set aside bales for you.  If you do happen to be in an area where they aren't locally available, and you end up having to order them from elsewhere, that might factor into your plans in cost of shipping.

Now the downside is that while it is easy to build, and generally costs much less than a traditional build, especially if you're doing most of the work yourself, it is absolutely essential that those final layers are done properly.  With straw bale, this cannot be stressed enough.  Those finishes protect from water, rodents, insects, aid in fire resistance, add thermal mass, and are what essentially keeps the structure standing longer.  If not done correctly, it can cause major issues down the road.  It can be done by you.  It is something that can be learned easily enough.  With enough patience to make sure it's done correctly, this isn't a problem.  But if you doubt your ability or patience, a professional may be necessary.  This is where the cost can start to add up.  Professionals in natural plasters don't generally come inexpensively.  But with a good footing/stem wall, an adequate overhang, and solid plastering technique, I believe anyone can do it.

Straw bale homes may not be for everyone.  But they are easily built, require readily available and renewable resources, provide excellent insulation, and as a bonus, absolutely incredible sound-proofing.  Definitely consider this as an option.  They can be built in just about any climate so long as proper precautions are taken for reasons of moisture and/or creatures that may try to claim the straw as their own.  A flood zone may not be the best ideal, but otherwise, they are definitely worthy of consideration.  For more information to begin your research, here are some valuable resources to check out.

https://www.strawbale.com/new-to-straw-bale/

http://buildingwithawareness.com/the-pros-and-cons-of-straw-bale-wall-construction-in-green-building/

http://pajaconstruction.com/advantages-and-challenges-of-straw-bale-construction/

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/strawbale/varmints.htm

http://www.motherearthnews.com/green-homes/earthbag-cob-strawbale-zbcz1605

http://www.simple-living-today.com/straw-bale-house.html

Homestead Green Building: Cordwood

Let me tell you something about cordwood construction.  It is beautiful.  It is charming.  It is rustic.  There is a ton of information online and in books on this subject.  I will also tell you that to find specifics that actually work is a whole other story.  Your best best, hands down, is to find someone who you can actually talk to.  Someone who has experience.  And by experience, I mean years of experience in actually building multiple structures, possibly in multiple conditions, if at all possible.  Find a workshop, and go.  For me, I have not been able to find a workshop within a reasonable distance, so, unfortunately, the information that I am presenting here is coming from a number of sources, none of them personal.  But, in an effort to provide you with the best information that I can, I am going to tell you what I've found - all the contradicting info out there.  From there, it's up to you.  But again, on this one, I STRONGLY urge you to find someone with lots and lots of experience that you know you can actually trust to learn the best possible information from.  That being said, let's start down this somewhat crazy path of cordwood construction.

So what exactly is cordwood.  Well, basically, cordwood is really any wood that would otherwise be wasted or not able to be used for traditional construction.  A "cord" is a unit of measurement.  When the wood is well stacked and relatively compact, a cord is a volume of 128 cubic feet, or 3.62 cubic meters.  A cordwood wall provides both insulation and thermal mass.  Insulation is from the wood, and whatever other insulation you may decide to use.  Thermal mass comes from the mortar.  The basics of building with cordwood is actually quite simple.  Cut all your pieces to roughly the same length, stack and mortar the pieces like brick or stone to then build your wall.  Simple, right?  Well, it should be.  While pretty much everyone will say that is simple enough that a child can do it, that's about all that is agreed on.  At the end of this post, I will include a few site links with information, some chat threads, and whatnot for you to look through and make your own judgments.

Let's start with a foundation for your walls.  Some sources say that you can start building directly on your foundation, or even directly on the ground.  Other sources say that the cordwood should start no less than a foot above the ground, preferably, more like two or more feet, so as to keep rain, snow, or whatever other kind of moisture could possibly get into your wood, out.  Having it raised, the advocates say, also greatly limits the amount in insects you'll end up dealing with.  I would tend to agree with the later sources.  Again, I have no personal experience, but, quite frankly, it just seems to make more sense.  Build the wall, much as you would cob or adobe, with a stone, or other solid material, foundation.  If nothing else, I, personally, think that makes the exterior that much more interesting and attractive.

For the actual cordwood section of the wall, some say that you can simply use the wood and mortar, especially if you don't need much in the way of insulation.  Others say that when you lay the wood, the mortar goes on either end of the wood, and then the center portion, rather than more mortar, use an insulating material.  With the insulation, there is disagreement on what is best.  Some say simple sawdust is enough.  Some say a combination of sawdust and lime.  Some say modern foam insulation.  As for the mortar, there is debate on whether or not to use modern concrete mortar, or a natural mortar, such as cob.  Supporters of cob insist that using concrete will keep the walls from breathing properly, which, as we should all know by now, is one of the trademark characteristics of most natural walls.  Nor would the concrete allow for natural compaction and expansion of the wood over time.  On the other hand, if cob is used, then it takes extra work to take care of the wall, including a larger overhang in order to keep moisture from coming in from the top.

Now, let's talk about the wood itself.  What kind do you choose, and what do you have to do to it?  Is there any agreement here?  Nope.  No such luck.  Now there does seem to be one common theme, in that most sources do say that it's better to use softwoods rather than hardwoods.  The reasoning behind this is that softwoods hold up better over time, and are generally easier to season, or dry.  Another complaint I've seen is that hardwoods generally tend to have higher amounts of oil in them creating stronger scents that some people can find offensive.  I would say that's a personal opinion, but the other sounds logical.  The seasoning or drying of the wood is yet another topic for disagreement.  All say to remove the bark, which is primarily what attracts insects and disease, and also holds in moisture.  Beyond that, well....  Some say to remove the bark while the tree is dormant.  Some say to remove it in the spring while the sap is flowing, making removal easier.  How long does it take to dry?  Some say that only 3 - 4 months is ample time to season the wood.  Others say that a few months is no where near enough time, but rather you need at least 2 -3 years for the wood to completely dry out.  To use the wood after a shorter amount of time, according to the proponents of the longer time frame, is to vastly increase the chances that your wood will not be dried out enough to keep it from rotting.  Rot happens because of moisture.  Disease, insects, and all of the other things that can possibly happen to wood to cause it to degrade happen due to moisture.  So, according to these sources, when the wood is truly seasoned over a longer period of time, what that means is that there will be much less expansion and contraction of the wood (which will happen over time, to one extent or another, as atmospheric fluctuations happen), leading to less upkeep, and practically eliminates entirely any need for chemicals of any kind to seal or treat the wood.  They say that once the wall is built, there really is almost zero upkeep needed, if it is built properly to begin with.

Cordwood buildings are beautiful.  And the actual building, regardless of the method followed, does seem to be one of the simpler building methods.  It also lends itself quite easily to variations.  Use different shapes and circumferences of wood to create patterns and designs within the wood.  Integrate colored bottles into the walls for interest, added color, and extra light.  Use it for the entire building, or for only one accent wall.  Some areas do require some sort of post and beam frame in the codes, but even that can have it's charm.  The possibilities here are massive.  If you can cut through all the conflicting information and find some real information from a truly reliable source, this is a great option that can be adapted for just about any climate.

http://cordwoodmasonry.com/

http://cordwoodconstruction.org/

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/cordwood.htm

https://www.niftyhomestead.com/blog/cordwood-construction/

https://cordwoodconstruction.wordpress.com/

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/cordwood/misc.htm

https://permies.com/t/8654/cordwood-houses

http://www.motherearthnews.com/green-homes/ask-our-experts-shrinkage-of-wood-in-cordwood-construction-zm0z11zblon

http://www.masterjules.net/cordhous.htm

http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/general-homesteading-forums/homesteading-questions/118815-cordwood-masonry.html

http://www.minimalisti.com/home-garden-design/10/cordwood-house-cordwood-construction.html

http://cordwoodconstruction.org/img/Why_Cordwood.pdf

http://www.dirtcheapbuilder.com/Home_Building/Cordwood_Masonry.htm

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/cordwood/seal.htm

http://www.lifeunplugged.net/greenbuilding/build-a-cordwood-home.aspx

http://www.appropedia.org/Cordwoodguy%27s_cordwood_guide

Homestead Green Building: Wattle and Daub

Wattle and daub buildings trace all the way back at least 6,000 years.  It is definitely one of the oldest building styles, found the world over.  There are some that say that more common techniques, such as cob and adobe, are developments that came out of wattle and daub building.  So what is wattle and daub?  Within  a timber framework, a network of lattice is made from some form of flexible sticks between the timbers.  This is the wattle.  An earthen mixture similar to cob is then "daubed" into the lattice/wattle.  While the mix is similar to cob, it can easily be adapted to whatever elements you have on hand that can create the same type of effect.  Generally speaking, the mix tends to consist of dirt, clay, plant material, straw, and animal dung.

Now, I've looked at many different sources, and there does seem to be some conflicting information, or at the very least, conflicting opinions, when it comes to wattle and daub.  While most agree on the basics, here is where the conflict arises.  Some say that there are two main downfalls to using wattle and daub as exterior walls.  Those downfalls are 1) that it simply isn't strong enough to be used for load-bearing purposes, and 2) that these walls are so thin that they don't provide any good thermal or insulating properties.  Others disagree with both of those.  I think the main difference between determining which side is more likely to be accurate would depend on what wood you are using for your primary timberwork framing.  If you use thin, flexible wood for the frame, then yes, you are going to have a lot of give if weight is added on top of it.  And being thin, no, it wouldn't provide much insulation or thermal mass.  You can easily make these walls as thick as you would like.  Just remember that part of the beauty of a wattle and daub wall is in it's flexibility.  The wall has to be able to give a little  if it needs to adapt to changing conditions.  And the wattle within the walls can actually help to stabilize the overall structure when other timbers may become impaired.  Also, the thermal mass and insulating properties can be increased based both on what mix you ultimately use as the daub, as well as how thick of a wall you end up with.  But because there are differing opinions from people who most likely know a whole lot more than I do, I will include a list of some of my references at the end of this post for you to read through, and come to your own conclusions.

One thing that is consistent is that you should not ever - NEVER - use anything such as cement or modern paints and sealants that create rigidity and hinder air flow.  Wattle and daub are designed to be flexible.  To include materials that would hinder that flexibility would actually cause the walls to degrade and crack.  It must also be able to breathe.  Any moisture that should get trapped in the wall needs a way to escape.  Otherwise, the wood inside will rot.  Lime plaster and and/or lime washes are what is recommended with this type of building.  Yes, it will mean the upkeep and reapplication may be more often.  But with regular and proper maintenance, these buildings can last several hundred years, at least.

Wattle and daub is not common in the U.S.  It is, however, still commonly used in other parts of the world.  It's easy to identify in most cases.  It has a rustic feel to it.  The walls tend to wave, and even the roofline can be uneven.  This can add to it's charm.  It can also be made smooth (relatively speaking) by plastering the walls with the same mix used as the daub.  This is recommended so as to encase the timber frames, giving them extra protection from the elements.

Another beautiful aspect to this type of building is that it can be used to make an entire wall, or to make individual panels that are then put into place wherever they are wanted/needed.  Again, it is very flexible.

The last thing I want to address is the use of animal dung.  For me, this was a big "HUH?!"  That sounds gross.  I use it in my garden as compost, yeah.  But to have it built into the walls of your home?  Does it smell?  Well, to address that,  I give you this site.  They explain it way better than I ever could.

Wattle and daub is a beautiful and natural building technique that should be considered in your research.  It has a long history.  And so long as you don't mind the upkeep, it can last for a very long time, and be beautiful and charming to boot.  For more information, here is the list of resources I mentioned earlier.  Happy researching!


https://www.britannica.com/technology/wattle-and-daub

http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/wattleanddaub/wattleanddaub.htm

https://primitivetechnology.wordpress.com/2015/07/07/building-a-wattle-and-daub-hut/

http://www.earthhomesnow.com/wattle-daub-homes.htm

http://www.motherearthnews.com/green-homes/build-structures-using-ancient-method-zbcz1404

http://www.thatched-group.com/articles/building/UnderstandingOrganicBuildings.htm

http://permaculturenews.org/2013/04/26/bamboo-wattle-and-daub-structures/

http://www.energyauditingblog.com/wattle-and-daub-the-ancient-wall-made-modern/