Homestead Green Building: Roofs

Roofs are probably one of the last things you think about when you start planning your homestead, right?  You may think standard style roofing trusses or whatnot.  Maybe you just think in terms of what you're going to need in order to place solar panels on top.  There is, however, a lot to consider, and it needs to be done while, or maybe even before, you decide what the general building style and materials of your home is going to be.  You must consider how large of a space you are covering, if it's going to work like a standard roof, if you want something simple where it's bare minimum with beams showing on the interior, if you want an attic large enough to maybe eventually turn it into an extra room, etc.  The good news is that there are options for a green roof that are not only beautiful, but also relatively simple to build.  Well, simple so long as a few - rather important - considerations are taken into account.  So let's take a look at some options - and a lot of pictures.

The simplest design would be a dome roof.  Dome? Simple?  Actually, yes!  Very much so! Most of the building styles we've looked at can easily be adapted to include a dome roof.  The walls simply continue up, gradually working there way into a smaller and smaller area.  Ideally this is done when the house design, itself, is a round house.  It can be done with other shaped footprints.  It just flows better (personal opinion) with a round home.  Of course, it will take extra considerations in so much as any weatherproofing that should be done to protect a natural material, such as cob or adobe.  The benefits of a dome go beyond just the idea of extending the walls up.  For smaller domes, often times there is no need for extra support.  Larger domes may need rebar or some other form of extra support.  The design of a dome lends itself very nicely to building in areas that may be subject to earthquakes, and even hurricanes.  This design has been used for centuries, showing that it can stand the test of time.

The next roofing idea is a reciprocal roof.  If you are unfamiliar with these beauties, I highly suggest you get familiar.  They are beautiful.  In fact, they can be absolutely stunning!  The idea, again building on a round house, is that timbers are stretched from the exterior walls to the middle of the space where they interlock with each other.  It can consist of as little as three timbers, to pretty much as many as you want to have.  It is self supporting, and surprisingly strong.  A center support is not needed, although there are some who would encourage it for a larger space.  A reciprocal roof can span as small or as large of an area as you need, assuming you can find timbers the length you need.  You can even build a double reciprocal design.  When done right, any weight on top of the roof pushes down, causing the timbers to press into each other as opposed to pushing out towards the walls.  These timbers are left visible on the interior, creating a simple, rustic, and amazing design.  What goes on top of this frame is up to you.  While you could cover it with standard tiles or shingles, it can also bear the weight of a green, or living roof.

A living roof is pretty much exactly what it sounds like: it's a roof made of grass or some other living plants.  A simple design: waterproofing, drainage, soil and plants.  This option is almost a guarantee when choosing an underground or even an earth bermed home.  Now, there are some very serious considerations with this one.  The soil and whatever you choose to use in your living roof is going to vary depending on where you are.  Because of that, there is no standard in determining weight load. This is vital to the overall structure of your home.  Too much weight sitting on top of a wall that isn't properly supported will lead to disaster.  With properly built walls, the next thing to consider is what is going beneath the soil and plants in terms of support across the expanse of the roof.  This is where a reciprocal roof becomes a great idea.  Since they can support heavy loads, they are ideal for heavier mediums used in green roofs.  Another thing to consider with a green roof are dead loads and live loads.  Dead loads would include the medium, plants, and snow loads (where applicable).  Live loads would include people and/or animals that may walk across the roof.  All of these things must be taken into consideration when figuring overall weight load.  You also have to consider, and properly plan for adequate drainage.  While the soil or other medium will absorb a certain amount, it's crucial to completely seal up the roof so that no excess water finds it's way into your home. For waterproofing, the most commonly suggested material will be the same waterproofing material that would be used with a standard roof, along with an extra layer of poly laid on top.  Here, however, is a design that uses birch bark for waterproofing in a church built more than 130 years ago.

So there are three green options for your homestead roof.  Of course, there are a number of other roofing options out there, including traditional standard roofing.  These, however, are what I would consider the best green options.  As with anything else, do some research and find what works best for you and your homestead.  Please remember that I am in no way an expert or professional.  I am merely here to provide a starting line for you to leap off of for ideas.  I will be taking next week off for Christmas, but I will return after New Year.  Here are a few places to do a little more reading on the roofs I've covered here.

Dome Roofs

http://ilovecob.com/archive/the-dome

https://www.intelligentliving.co/building-earthen-dome-homes-6-weeks-diy/

http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/faqs/domes.htm

http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/plans/envirodome.htm

Reciprocal Roofs

http://greenbuildingelements.com/2008/10/01/the-reciprocal-roof-beauty-strength-and-simplicity-in-a-roof-frame/

http://www.thatroundhouse.info/reciframes.htm

http://www.theyearofmud.com/2008/11/26/how-to-build-a-reciprocal-roof-frame/

http://www.naturalbuildingblog.com/reciprocal-roofs/

Living Roofs

https://www.gsa.gov/portal/mediaId/167831/fileName/Challenges_to_Green_Roof_Construction.action

http://straw-bale.blogspot.com/

http://www.livingroofsinc.com/

Homestead Green Building: Foundations

A house is only as good as it's foundation.  You've heard that before, right?  Well, it's true.  When it comes to green building, there's really not a whole of information out there (at least not that I've found) on building a green foundation.  Even within a vast majority of green building resources, a concrete foundation seems to be quite common, and even highly suggested.  It's by no means the only route to go, though.

As we've seen in looking at some of the different building styles, there is something at the base that is called a rubble trench.  This allows you to build with a natural material, and yet keep it off the ground so as to help it last longer - much much longer.  A rubble trench is considered a foundation.  It is a foundation upon which you will build your walls.  The technique has been around for a very long time, but it wasn't until architect Frank Lloyd Wright began using it that it started to regain popularity.  Even today, a lot of code enforcement doesn't include rubble trenches.  So you may have to do a little research, and maybe a lot of educating, in order to get your rubble trench approved.  I haven't gotten into it too much before, so here's the basics of a rubble trench foundation.  This will be the overall outline of your home; where the walls will sit.  You can do it by hand, but a small backhoe is not a bad idea.  Dig a trench where you want the exterior walls to be.  This trench should be a minimum of 16 - 24 inches wide, and go down to a few inches beneath the frost line.  Dig the trench so that there is a slight slope going downhill and away from the house.  This will help with drainage, keeping moisture away from your home.  Once the trench has been dug, now you need to fill it.  Tamp it down.  A good hand tamper will work nicely.  Start with a breathable layer of wicking material.  This will aid in the drainage, and also keep the rest of your foundation walls from settling too much.  Now starts the "rubble".  Use rocks, stones, recycled concrete, or something similar.  Each piece should be 1 1/2 to 3 inches big.  Fill the trench up about 4 inches.  This should be at or slightly below the frost line.  Now lay a pipe.  This pipe should be roughly 4 inches diameter with holes drilled all around at regular intervals.  Yes, this is another step to help with drainage.  Once the pipe has been laid, fill the trench the rest of the way up to grade level.  Don't forgt to tamp every vertical foot or so.  This is where you'll begin your stem wall and then whatever building material you choose on top of that.  It's simple, it's effective, and it's natural.  It is a lot of work, but it's worth it.

So that's a good foundation for the walls.  Now what about the rest of the house.  What do you do beneath the floors?  That's where it can get as simple or as complex as you want.  If you really want to go rustic, you can simply have dirt floors.  Or, you can always go the route of building your home on stilts.  That's an entirely different set of circumstances that I'm not going to get into here.  For a home that sits on the ground, assuming you don't want a dirt floor, there are some things that hold true no matter how you proceed next.  No matter what else you decide to do, you must have a moisture barrier, as well as a radon barrier.  Radon is a gas that is naturally released from the ground, and it is toxic.  Personally, I would think it's a horrible mistake to not put in a radon barrier.  Yes, this and the moisture barrier will most likely be a form of plastic.  I regret to inform you that it is currently the best thing out there to provide an adequate barrier.  I will update this post if I find a natural alternative.  Now, when it comes to barriers, make sure to know the difference between a moisture barrier and a vapor barrier.  They are not the same thing.  Utilized improperly, and you may inadvertently trap moisture where you don't want it.  Consult a professional for any questions you may have.  Beyond those two things, insulation is the next consideration.  This is not a requirement everywhere.  But again. I think it's something that should not be skipped.  There are natural insulation alternatives.  Here are a few options.  While primarily used in walls and ceilings, it can also be adapted to floors.  It all depends on what you're planning to use as your actual flooring material.  Personally, I think my favorite flooring idea comes from here.  A layer of volcanic rock is used for the insulation.  The author here goes through all the steps of making his floor, even including tubing for a radiant heat system.  And then lastly, is his earthen floor.  I'll get into earthen floors (and a lot more) in a later post.  But this is a good system.  Now he states that there is not a lot of R value in his floor, but it's ok for him because of the nature of the building he's constructing.  More could definitely be added for a home floor.

So there you have it.  It's pretty basic.  Always remember that there may be certain code requirements for residential buildings.  Please check and make sure that you are well informed.  It always helps the process go smoother if you are aware of information that code enforcement may not be.  You may need to - politely - educate them.  When in doubt, always consult a professional.  Here are some links with further information on foundations.

http://thehtrc.com/2010/building-green-homes-footings-foundations

http://www.homeadvisor.com/article.show.Going-Green-Foundations-Retaining-Walls-and-Waterproofing.16451.html

http://www.ecobuildingpulse.com/news/part-6-foundation_o

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/maintenance-and-repair/sustainability/the-basics-of-eco-house-construction

https://greenbuildingsolutions.org/green-building-materials/foundations/

https://www.buildinggreen.com/blog/choosing-foundation-materials-subconscious-decision

http://www.buildnaturally.com/EDucate/Articles/RubbleTrench.htm

Break Week

I am taking a break this week in order to focus my attention on helping my son study for semester final exams.  I thank you for your patience and understanding.  I will be back next week with information on green foundations.  Have a good week everyone!

Homestead Green Building: Houseboats

Wait a second.  Houseboats?  Green?  Homestead?  Actually, yes!  Ok, so maybe not in the strictest sense.  But absolutely, yes, houseboats can be green, and yes, they can be used as a homestead.  If you want to be on your own and off the grid, this absolutely is an option.  If you have a piece of property that has a lake, river, or shoreline, or even if you don't truly want to be tied down to one place, a houseboat can be your answer.  I'm actually a little excited about this option.  I've been looking forward to this particular post for quite some time now.  The options are so much more varied than you might think at first.  Let me show you.

So when you hear the word "houseboat", your mind may automatically go to a movie such as the classic "Houseboat" with Sophia Loren and Cary Grant, or even "Sleepless in Seattle".  And the truth is that both are very real and true forms that a houseboat can take.  It can be something as simple as an actual boat that you live on, to something more like a traditional house that floats, and so many other styles in between.  Now, obviously, it must be built to float and/or move on water, and the living quarters must be built in such a way that constant moisture is not a problem.  For that reason, a material such as cob or adobe might not be at the top of your list.  If you're not out on the open ocean, it may still be an option, but it will almost certainly require a bit more upkeep.  But it can be built from sustainable timber or bamboo.  Now, of course, the interior can be whatever you want.  The upside is that for your power, that can most certainly be a green.  The obvious here would be hydro power.  But just about any of the options out there (except for maybe geothermal) would be easy to integrate into a houseboat.

Now, you can buy a houseboat, either brand spanking new or as a fixer-upper.  You can buy a boat and retrofit it into a houseboat.  Or you can build completely from scratch.  Now, there are laws and codes that you must learn.  Depending on the size and structure of your houseboat, there may be different laws that affect you.  They can also vary greatly from state to state, and region to region.  Everything from how long you can stay docked at a specific location, to whether your houseboat is considered a boat or a residence (which is very important in regards to maritime laws, and search and seizure possibilities), and many places have very specific laws when it comes to environmental impact.  That last one shouldn't be of too much concern for you if you are going green.  The engine can be green if you utilize an alternative fuel.  Even waste can be dealt with in a green manner- composting toilets, incinerating toilets, or a really good filtration system is absolutely a must.  Just an aside here, an incinerating toilet is not something that I think I would consider.  Think about it for a minute: literally burning your waste..... the smell!  Not to mention the clean-up.  Of course, I have no direct experience here, but if anyone has any info they'd like to offer on these things, I'd be more than happy to hear about it.

Although it might seem an odd thought at first, a houseboat can even be ideal for growing your own food.  You can do this by having a green roof, a green deck, hydroponics, or an aquaponic set-up.  Any of these ideas would make gardening on your houseboat a relatively simple task.  And with all the ideas and possibilities that have been written about concerning gardening for small spaces, it just makes it all the better.

In short, a houseboat can be an amazing option for going off grid.  As with any of the other options we've already looked at, you can get as creative as you like, make it as large or as small as you'd like, and let your creativity run wild.  While the actual building or purchase of a houseboat may cost a bit more than some of the other options we've looked at, without the additional purchase of land, the overall cost could even out, or even be a bit less expensive in the long run.  It all depends on you- what you put into it.  I've included a list of reference sites for purchasing a houseboat, finding design ideas and blueprints, and even some sources for laws and codes.  I hope you find them informative.  I know that I've not gone into great detail here, but the main reason behind that is that there are just too many options to consider to get it all condensed into one simple blog post.  Happy researching!

Pre-made green houseboats:

http://www.maxim.com/maxim-man/jet-capsule-unidentified-floating-object-concept-home-2016-04

http://firmtec.com/eng/projects

http://www.insidehook.com/nation/big-beautiful-solar-houseboats-waterlovt

http://dornob.com/self-sufficient-houseboat-lets-you-leave-civilization-behind/

http://www.greenecoservices.com/nine-eco-friendly-houseboats/

http://weburbanist.com/2008/02/20/17-extreme-houseboats-and-houseboat-designs-luxury-marine-habitats-to-humble-floating-homes/

Plans, blueprints, and ideas:

http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/40-foot-shantyboat-houseboat.html

http://tinyhousetalk.com/micro-houseboat-you-can-build/

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/house-boat-plans.html

http://www.travelchannel.com/shows/extreme-houseboats/video/how-to-build-a-houseboat

http://buildahouseboat.com/building-a-houseboat/

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3035438/Family-lives-AMAZING-artistically-vibrant-self-sufficient-floating-home-coast-Canada-miles-civilization.html

http://www.treehugger.com/green-architecture/self-sufficient-solar-powered-barge-and-houseboat.html

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/cheap-green-solar-houseboat-plans-part-1.html

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/solar-powered-houseboats.html

http://www.treehugger.com/tiny-houses/geodesic-houseboat-michael-weekes.html

http://inhabitat.com/the-tiny-sweet-pea-is-the-first-houseboat-to-be-certified-by-build-green/

http://inhabitat.com/these-floating-jellyfish-gardens-purify-polluted-water-and-air-while-growing-food/

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/homebuilt-houseboat.html

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/kevin-mccloud-sails-fully-sea-faring-cardboard-houseboat-down-thames-a7008471.html

http://tinyhousetalk.com/rosebud-tiny-house-boat/

http://www.naazkashmir.com/blog/tag/deluxe-houseboat-in-kashmir/

http://weburbanist.com/2008/08/11/15-more-extreme-houseboats-and-houseboat-designs/

http://crazyfreelancer.com/10-unreal-houseboats-will-set-imagination-adrift/9/

Codes and Laws:

http://www.seattlepi.com/local/article/Seattle-to-houseboat-scofflaws-Follow-rules-or-4119600.php

http://www.houseboatmagazine.com/2010/11/the-laws-of-living-aboard

http://www.npr.org/2013/01/15/169452244/supreme-court-rules-that-houseboats-are-houses-not-boats

http://peopleof.oureverydaylife.com/legal-live-houseboat-river-9793.html

https://www.nps.gov/commercialservices/docs/concessioner%20tools/USCG_Vessel_Checklist_Houseboat.pdf

http://www.seattlepi.com/local/article/Seattle-to-houseboat-scofflaws-Follow-rules-or-4119600.php

Homestead Green Building: Bamboo

When you hear the word bamboo, what images flash through your mind?  Maybe a tropical paradise.  An open house where the warm breezes can easily come rushing through.  Not surprising.  Bamboo is used a lot in construction of homes and other buildings, but primarily in areas like Asia, islands of the Pacific, and, more recently, in Central and South America.  It's taking it's time coming into it's own here in the U.S. and other places.  But it is coming.  And for very good reason.  Let's look.

Bamboo might just be the master of disguise.  It is a grass.  It is one of, if not the, fastest growing woody plant on the planet.  Some species can grow more than three feet in a single day.  Generally, it comes to full growth within nine months to a year.  It can be stronger than steel, and yet is so flexible, that buildings made from it can withstand earthquakes and hurricanes.  And it is extremely flexible.  In it's full form, it can be used for walls and/or a support structure.  It can be cut in half, lengthwise, to create siding and flooring.  The fibers inside of it can be made into a natural insulation, or even into clothing.  It is a remarkable plant.

The downside of bamboo... well, that just depends on your perspective, I guess.  As a plant, it is extremely vulnerable to insects and mold unless it is treated as soon as it is harvested.  Once treated, it is, however, virtually impervious to these same issues.  You can grow your own.  Just be sure to make sure it is the best species for use in building, and that it can be grown in your climate.  (For a breakdown of best species for building, look here.)  There are some species that grow in more northern climates, but for the most part, bamboo prefers warmer, tropical regions.  For this reason, you may have to have your bamboo shipped in.  That can easily add up into quite the pretty penny.  If you are looking to keep your costs to a bare minimum, that is something you'd definitely have to consider.  Also, you should never use young stalks.  If you want the structure to last, the bamboo should be at least 3-4 years old and completely dried out prior to use.  Bamboo cannot be put together the same way you would a traditional timber-frame house.  Do not use nails.  The bamboo will split, and, result in a less than stable support.  It should either be lashed together using old world techniques, or possibly larger bolts, so long as they are used in the right ways at the right places.  Use the natural nodes of the bamboo. See here, here, and here for various joining techniques.

Most sources I've come across say that it can be used for homes in colder climates, so long as a double wall construction technique is used.  Basically, that means a two separate bamboo walls, an exterior and an interior, with some sort of insulation in between.  This source, however, says that there is a concern of fluctuating temperatures and humidity levels causing the bamboo to crack.  That is something important that would need further clarification from a certified builder if you are looking to build in a colder climate.

As for building codes, here in the U.S., I've not been able to find any information on current updates to codes that cover using bamboo as the primary construction framework.  That's not to say that it's not out there, I've just not been able to find it.  And, as so many areas have varying codes, not just from state to state, but also from county to county, and sometimes even from town to town, you want to make sure that you have all the answers you need before making the jump into building with bamboo.  Make sure to contact your building authority to find out exactly what the specifics are.  Or, you may be able to contact a local architect or builder that specializes in green home construction. They may be a bit easier to get information out of, as many code enforcement offices can be quite hesitant when it comes to green construction.

Now, when it comes to insulation, if you don't need much, you can use the bamboo in and of itself, as the natural hollow core creates a "dead air" space.  That space creates a measure of insulation, although maybe not much.  (I haven't been able to find anything relating to an R value.)  However, if more is needed, you can use the double wall technique and fill with the insulation of your choice.  There are manufacturers of bamboo insulation, but most of them are overseas.  So, again, shipping costs will play a part in your decision there.

Bamboo is a beautiful and sustainable building material.  If you don't have a supplier close, or cannot grow it yourself, it can get a bit on the expensive side.  But it is flexible enough to be able to be used in almost every aspect of the building process.  It is a product that has great potential.  A time may come when it is more readily available and costs will drop.  For now, I would say that the cost is the primary hindrance that would keep me from using this amazing plant.  I leave you with a collection of informative sites from people more knowledgeable than I, that may be able to answer more questions you may have concerning utilizing bamboo in construction, as well as new and upcoming development ideas for uses of bamboo.

http://inhabitat.com/beautiful-bamboo-living-houses-take-two-days-to-build/

http://webecoist.momtastic.com/2011/06/20/building-with-bamboo-13-super-sustainable-structures/

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/bamboo.htm

http://www.bamboogrove.com/bamboo-houses.html

http://www.communityarchitectsnetwork.info/upload/opensources/public/file_14062013022345.pdf

http://www.ehow.com/how_4613878_build-bamboo-house.html

https://www.niftyhomestead.com/blog/bamboo-buildings/

https://www.dezeen.com/2015/11/04/bamboo-fibre-stronger-than-steel-dirk-hebel-world-architecture-festival-2015/

http://www.jeccomposites.com/knowledge/international-composites-news/development-bamboo-fiber-composites-china

http://news.mit.edu/2014/researchers-study-bamboo-for-engineered-building-material-0723

http://ceramics.org/ceramic-tech-today/biomaterials/could-a-bamboo-fiber-composite-replace-steel-reinforcements-in-concrete

http://www.mse.umd.edu/sites/default/files/documents/undergrad/enma490/Team%20Bamboo%20Fiber%20Composite-Report.pdf

http://www.ripublication.com/ijcer_spl/ijcerv5n3spl_08.pdf

http://www.resource-fiber.com/why-bamboo

http://design490.org/bamboo-the-new-building-material/

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/229140175_Bamboo_fibre_reinforced_biocomposites_A_review

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0261306914005135

http://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/10477/steel-vs-bamboo-strengths-in-various-directions-orientations-tensile-compres

http://www.newsweek.com/stronger-steel-85533

http://www.archdaily.com/513736/bamboo-a-viable-alternative-to-steel-reinforcement

Green Homestead Building: Hempcrete

Hempcrete is a fantastic building material that has suffered a bad rap until recently.  Hemp has been used in building for centuries.  It was outlawed here in the US roughly 60 years ago as it was assumed to be the same plant that is used to get high.  However, while they are both strains of the Cannabis family, they are not the same plant.  Hemp contains so little THC (the psychoactive chemical that produces that high feeling), that it is simply not possible to get any sort of high from it.  Now, being that I'm not here to discuss the commonly smoked variety of cannabis, let's just get right to the nitty gritty.

Hemp is a fast growing crop that is finally making a come back.  It is truly versatile in that it can be used as medicine, fuel, clothing, and so much more.  It grows so fast that weeds cannot even take root.  It needs no pesticides.  It is truly a very environmentally friendly crop.  As a building material, it is natural, strong, and can last many many many years.  When mixed and set correctly, it is mold, fire, and pest resistant.  It provides incredible insulation AND thermal mass in one, whereas most of the other green building techniques we've looked at are either one or the other.  It has an R value of around 25 per foot of material, and has the thermal mass so that it can contain and slowly release heat/cooling into the interior of the building.

To build with hempcrete is a relatively simple process.  The core fibers, or "shiv" is dried, and then mixed with water and a binder, generally lime.  I have seen some recipes that also add cement.  Most don't.  It is not used as the sole material of the walls.  There must be a post and beam frame of some kind.  The hempcrete is then put in place using a techniques similar to that used in rammed earth.  A shutter, or framework, is temporarily put in place.  The hemp mix is then poured and compacted in.  The shutters can be removed within hours.  At that point, the hempcrete is solid enough to stand on it's own, but it will still need up to two days to completely dry.  It can also be sprayed into place in the frame.  It can be used in floors, walls, and ceilings.  It cannot, however, be used in underground or earth bermed structures.  It needs to breathe, so airflow on both sides of the wall is critical.  Different suppliers of the binders will recommend the amount of water.  Hemp will absorb part of the water, and the lime needs water to properly set.  When in doubt, always refer to instructions and/or professionals to get the right mix.

For the plumbing and electrical, those should be put into place before the hempcrete is filled in.  It just makes things easier and more efficient in the overall process.  If you want to have a type of in-floor heating system, that can be applied within the hempcrete, as well.  Once the walls have dried, a render is then placed on the outside, with a final coat of lime.  The interior walls can either be left as is, or covered with a lime and/or clay finish.  But, just as with other green building styles, whatever you use for the finishes, it must be a natural breathable material.  I cannot stress enough, it must be able to breathe.  Do not use any sealers or paints that cannot breathe.

Until recently, hemp providers were difficult to come by, at least here in the US.  Thankfully, that is changing.  Hempcrete is an amazing material.  Once the foundation and framing has been done, a hempcrete structure can come together fairly quickly.  If you want a home that is fast, environmentally friendly, and little upkeep, hempcrete may be the right choice for you.

As with all the other methods I've discussed, I am by no means an expert.  I'm just here to provide enough information to give you a jumping off point for further research.  Learn as much as you can, and attend workshops whenever possible.  Following is a rather lengthy list of online resources for your perusing pleasure.

http://www.offgridquest.com/homes-dwellings/building-methods/hempcrete-the-astounding-benefits-of-usi

http://www.hemp-technologies.com/resources/Simple-Hempcrete-Binder-Recipe.pdf

http://endeavourcentre.org/2014/11/building-with-hempcrete-or-hemp-lime/

http://thelaststraw.org/building-hempcrete-hemp-lime-essential-tips-beginner-part-2/

http://www.americanhempllc.com/hempcrete

http://hempsteads.info/build-hemp

http://www.naturalbuildingblog.com/hempcrete-growing-your-own-house/

https://www.ukhempcrete.com/hempcrete-buildings-thermal-performance-and-costs/

http://hempcretehouse.coffeecup.com/

https://www.greenrushdaily.com/2016/04/09/hempcrete-building/

http://hempuse.com/?page_id=487

http://hempsteads.info/qualities/2013/hemcrete-for-basements

http://www.inmatteria.com/2014/10/20/in-review-the-hempcrete-book-designing-and-building-with-hemp-lime/

http://hempsteads.info/qualities/2013/hemp-insulation-r-value

http://www.ialtenergy.com/hempcrete.html

http://www.producer.com/2014/05/hempcrete-homes-economical/

http://www.bath.ac.uk/ace/research/cicm/news-and-events/files/BIOMATERIALS_AND_BINDERS_-_Lanos.pdf

http://www.collective-evolution.com/2013/02/03/hempcrete-worlds-strongest-building-material/

http://dailytwocents.com/what-is-hempcrete/

https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:722306/FULLTEXT01.pdf

http://www.floridahempalliance.com/

Homestead Green Building: Papercrete

Papercrete.  Yes, it is exactly what it sounds like: building with paper.  This is one of the newer ideas in the green building plethora of ideas.  Quite frankly, I'm on the fence with this one.  But seeing as how it does exist, and it is gaining traction, I thought it would be worth talking about.  While originally developed in the 1920's, it was pretty much forgotten about until the 1980's.  That's when it started really picking up followers and builders.

Sometimes referred to as padobe, paperadobe, or fibercrete, among others, the basic recipe is paper and water.  Most fans of this method also add Portland cement. I'll get a bit into different recipes and uses here in a minute.  I think the best description I came across when researching this was "industrial paper mache'".  It is a great recycling method.  Paper, cardboard, and I've even read about people that throw plastic and other items into the mix.  The mix used can be just about as unique as the person who mixes it.  Mainly, it depends primarily on what exactly you're doing with it.  As just the paper and water, it can be used as insulation or a finishing plaster.  If you add the cement, it can form solid bricks, and have load-bearing capabilities to hold a roof.

When the mix has cement, or other non-paper materials, it also dries faster and shrinks less.  A simple paper/water mix will shrink by as much as 20%.  Add cement, and the shrinkage reduces by 5-10%.  It really doesn't sound like much, but it can add up quickly, in work amount and cost.  You will have to buy the cement, if you choose to use it.  If you choose not to use it, you will have to come up with another method for the load-bearing walls.

The recipe of water, paper and cement, generally has an R value of 2-3 per inch.  So if you build a 12" thick wall, you're looking at an R value of roughly 24-36.  Pretty good, I'd say.  Now, most of that insulation comes from the air pockets that are created as the water evaporates out.  That can be affected by anything else you throw in there.  Some people will add sand or clay to the mix.  This will add weight, make it denser, and add some thermal mass, but cuts down on the insulating value.  With the paper, you can also add other fibrous material.  After all, it is the fibers and cellulose in the paper that gives it the strength.  What you add is up to you.  Of course, one of the main considerations you need to make when determining which recipe to use is climate.  That will determine how much thermal mass vs insulation you may need.

Being that it is paper, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.  It should not be used underground.  It will decompose.  It is also very susceptible to moisture.  So, if you're going to use it as your exterior walls or in a bathroom, kitchen, etc, then some form of water resistant coating, such as lime, will need to be added.  And as with other green building methods, it needs a good stemwall at the base to keep the papercrete from soaking up ground moisture.

Papercrete has some great benefits.  We've already covered the recycling aspect.  But it is also relatively inexpensive, it is light enough for one person to be able to lift and move blocks, and can be easily cut, molded, drilled, or otherwise shaped when using only water, paper, and even cement.  It can still be done when adding sand or clay, but it will wear the tools down much faster.  It can also be made in blocks, slabs, or even dome forms.  It is quite versatile.

It's downside comes in it's lack of water resistance, and the question of whether or not it is truly green.  Opponents would say that using the cement is counter-intuitive to being green.  But it could be argued that it depends a lot on just how much you are using in comparison to recycled materials.  But there's also the question of the paper itself.  While recycling it is definitely a good thing, I would suggest to watch just what kind of paper you're using.  Some papers use different chemicals both in the ink, glue (in cardboard), and in any additional coatings that are used (ie. to make it glossy).  Make sure it's nothing you can't live with having in your walls.  Also, if you choose not to use cement, clay, sand or other additives, it increases the papercrete's vulnerability to insects, rodents, and fire.

Papercrete has many possibilities.  What you choose to do with it will determine what you put into it.  There are many areas where it is now being taken into consideration in building codes and guidelines.  It can be as green (or not) as you decide it to be.  If this has piqued your interest, here are just a few, of many, sites where you can get more information on the history, techniques, recipes and more from experts and do-it-yourselfer's alike.  Happy researching!

http://www.instructables.com/id/I-Love-Papercrete/

http://www.papercrete.com/

http://www.livinginpaper.com/mixes.htm

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/papercrete/structural.htm

http://www.livinginpaper.com/current.htm

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/articles/papercrete.htm

http://makepapercrete.com/Houses-Made-From-Papercrete.html

Homestead Green Building: Straw Bale

When you first start thinking of building green with natural materials, straw bale is probably one of the first building styles you think of.  It seems to be the most commonly mentioned in green building circles.  There is good reason for that, as straw bale construction has a number of benefits.  Let's take a look.

Straw is a wonderful building material for a number of reasons.  It is, basically, a waste product.  This is not the hay that is used for animal feed.  Animals cannot digest straw.  In actuality, straw is the stalk that comes from pretty much any grain.  Once the grain itself has been harvested, the stalks are baled.  It can be used for animal bedding.  But a great percentage of straw is burned as waste.  By putting it to use in building, less is burned, making it great environmentally.  When it is baled, it is tightly compacted.  This is useful because 1) it provides greater strength, 2) gives it a higher insulating value, 3) animals, such as rodents, find it difficult to nest in it, and 4) less open space for oxygen, making it more fire resistant.  So now, let's break each of those down a bit.

Greater strength.  There are primarily two ways to build with straw bales.  One is using the bales in and of themselves, without any extra framework, and the other is by infilling a traditional type frame with the bales.  As the bales can be used without additional framing, even for load-bearing walls, and in two story builds, this testifies to it's strength.  The downside of this, is that it can make it a bit more difficult, although not impossible, to obtain building permits.  While more and more places are expanding building codes to be inclusive of straw bale construction, many of those do require some sort of framework.  This is one of those times when working closely with code officials will be necessary.  Know your information well, as it may very well be a relatively unknown subject to code enforcement officers.  But built correctly, it can easily last a hundred years or more.  They have even been known to withstand earthquakes.  They are tough buildings.

Higher insulating value.  In any climate, building a structure with good insulation is imperative.  Using standard insulation, anything with a rating of R=19 or higher is considered "super insulated". Tightly compacted straw bales average at about R=2.7 per inch.  And as bales are generally between 16 and 18 inches thick, that would put the overall rating between R=43 and R=48 (according to this).  As you can see, this is a superior insulating material.  That being said, there is practically zero thermal mass, meaning it won't hold heat or cold for extended lengths of time.  That is where a good natural plaster (such as cob or lime) come in.  Adding a good thick layer will give the walls great thermal mass, as well as seal the wall for protection from insects, animals, and excess moisture.  Moisture is the main thing that can be disastrous in a straw bale building.  Proper sealing is absolutely required.  And it must also be breathable.  Modern wall sealants don't allow for this breathing.  So if any moisture has been trapped inside, it won't be able to escape.  Natural plasters are breathable and more forgiving as settling occurs over time.  This prevents cracking in the walls that can, again, let in unwanted moisture.  So why not include a healthy layer of a natural material that not only protects the bales, but also provides thermal mass?

Rodents find it hard to nest in.  Ok, so it's not impossible for them to get in.  But they don't like eating it, as they can't digest it.  When the bales are tightly compacted, it's more difficult for them to get in.  And with a good and proper plaster finish, it greatly reduces the odds of one of these critters getting in there.  And the same goes for insects.  While there may be some already in the straw as your building,  once the plaster goes up, the ones in there cannot escape, and will eventually die.  And new ones will not be able to get in.  Now if you are utilizing a timber framework within which you will be placing the bales, you will have to do something for the possibilities of termites and any other critter that would find wood attractive.  So that is something to keep in mind.

Fire resistant.  This one almost seems like an oxymoron, doesn't it?  Straw?  Fire resistant?  Actually, yes.  Again, this comes from the fact that the straw is so tightly compacted into bales that there is little to no space for oxygen to flow.  And without oxygen, fire cannot live.  And, yet again, the final plaster further protects the straw in case something were to happen.  In fact, tests have shown that properly constructed straw buildings are actually MORE fire resistant than traditional built homes.

Straw bale construction is easily learned, and can be done by the do-it-yourselfer.  It goes surprisingly quickly.  The bales, being the size they are, makes the walls go up very quickly.  Bales can also be used as internal walls if you'd like.  Just remember that that size will take up a bit of floor space, unless you have already planned for that and make the overall structure larger to accommodate that.  Alternatively, one of the other natural building styles we've already discussed can be used for the interior.

Another great aspect of straw bales is that they are almost universally available locally.  If you can become well acquainted with a local farmer, that helps a lot.  You may, however, need to plan out in advance for the next year's harvest, to have the farmer set aside bales for you.  If you do happen to be in an area where they aren't locally available, and you end up having to order them from elsewhere, that might factor into your plans in cost of shipping.

Now the downside is that while it is easy to build, and generally costs much less than a traditional build, especially if you're doing most of the work yourself, it is absolutely essential that those final layers are done properly.  With straw bale, this cannot be stressed enough.  Those finishes protect from water, rodents, insects, aid in fire resistance, add thermal mass, and are what essentially keeps the structure standing longer.  If not done correctly, it can cause major issues down the road.  It can be done by you.  It is something that can be learned easily enough.  With enough patience to make sure it's done correctly, this isn't a problem.  But if you doubt your ability or patience, a professional may be necessary.  This is where the cost can start to add up.  Professionals in natural plasters don't generally come inexpensively.  But with a good footing/stem wall, an adequate overhang, and solid plastering technique, I believe anyone can do it.

Straw bale homes may not be for everyone.  But they are easily built, require readily available and renewable resources, provide excellent insulation, and as a bonus, absolutely incredible sound-proofing.  Definitely consider this as an option.  They can be built in just about any climate so long as proper precautions are taken for reasons of moisture and/or creatures that may try to claim the straw as their own.  A flood zone may not be the best ideal, but otherwise, they are definitely worthy of consideration.  For more information to begin your research, here are some valuable resources to check out.

https://www.strawbale.com/new-to-straw-bale/

http://buildingwithawareness.com/the-pros-and-cons-of-straw-bale-wall-construction-in-green-building/

http://pajaconstruction.com/advantages-and-challenges-of-straw-bale-construction/

http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/strawbale/varmints.htm

http://www.motherearthnews.com/green-homes/earthbag-cob-strawbale-zbcz1605

http://www.simple-living-today.com/straw-bale-house.html