As we've seen in looking at some of the different building styles, there is something at the base that is called a rubble trench. This allows you to build with a natural material, and yet keep it off the ground so as to help it last longer - much much longer. A rubble trench is considered a foundation. It is a foundation upon which you will build your walls. The technique has been around for a very long time, but it wasn't until architect Frank Lloyd Wright began using it that it started to regain popularity. Even today, a lot of code enforcement doesn't include rubble trenches. So you may have to do a little research, and maybe a lot of educating, in order to get your rubble trench approved. I haven't gotten into it too much before, so here's the basics of a rubble trench foundation. This will be the overall outline of your home; where the walls will sit. You can do it by hand, but a small backhoe is not a bad idea. Dig a trench where you want the exterior walls to be. This trench should be a minimum of 16 - 24 inches wide, and go down to a few inches beneath the frost line. Dig the trench so that there is a slight slope going downhill and away from the house. This will help with drainage, keeping moisture away from your home. Once the trench has been dug, now you need to fill it. Tamp it down. A good hand tamper will work nicely. Start with a breathable layer of wicking material. This will aid in the drainage, and also keep the rest of your foundation walls from settling too much. Now starts the "rubble". Use rocks, stones, recycled concrete, or something similar. Each piece should be 1 1/2 to 3 inches big. Fill the trench up about 4 inches. This should be at or slightly below the frost line. Now lay a pipe. This pipe should be roughly 4 inches diameter with holes drilled all around at regular intervals. Yes, this is another step to help with drainage. Once the pipe has been laid, fill the trench the rest of the way up to grade level. Don't forgt to tamp every vertical foot or so. This is where you'll begin your stem wall and then whatever building material you choose on top of that. It's simple, it's effective, and it's natural. It is a lot of work, but it's worth it.
So that's a good foundation for the walls. Now what about the rest of the house. What do you do beneath the floors? That's where it can get as simple or as complex as you want. If you really want to go rustic, you can simply have dirt floors. Or, you can always go the route of building your home on stilts. That's an entirely different set of circumstances that I'm not going to get into here. For a home that sits on the ground, assuming you don't want a dirt floor, there are some things that hold true no matter how you proceed next. No matter what else you decide to do, you must have a moisture barrier, as well as a radon barrier. Radon is a gas that is naturally released from the ground, and it is toxic. Personally, I would think it's a horrible mistake to not put in a radon barrier. Yes, this and the moisture barrier will most likely be a form of plastic. I regret to inform you that it is currently the best thing out there to provide an adequate barrier. I will update this post if I find a natural alternative. Now, when it comes to barriers, make sure to know the difference between a moisture barrier and a vapor barrier. They are not the same thing. Utilized improperly, and you may inadvertently trap moisture where you don't want it. Consult a professional for any questions you may have. Beyond those two things, insulation is the next consideration. This is not a requirement everywhere. But again. I think it's something that should not be skipped. There are natural insulation alternatives. Here are a few options. While primarily used in walls and ceilings, it can also be adapted to floors. It all depends on what you're planning to use as your actual flooring material. Personally, I think my favorite flooring idea comes from here. A layer of volcanic rock is used for the insulation. The author here goes through all the steps of making his floor, even including tubing for a radiant heat system. And then lastly, is his earthen floor. I'll get into earthen floors (and a lot more) in a later post. But this is a good system. Now he states that there is not a lot of R value in his floor, but it's ok for him because of the nature of the building he's constructing. More could definitely be added for a home floor.
So there you have it. It's pretty basic. Always remember that there may be certain code requirements for residential buildings. Please check and make sure that you are well informed. It always helps the process go smoother if you are aware of information that code enforcement may not be. You may need to - politely - educate them. When in doubt, always consult a professional. Here are some links with further information on foundations.
http://thehtrc.com/2010/building-green-homes-footings-foundations
http://www.homeadvisor.com/article.show.Going-Green-Foundations-Retaining-Walls-and-Waterproofing.16451.html
http://www.ecobuildingpulse.com/news/part-6-foundation_o
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/maintenance-and-repair/sustainability/the-basics-of-eco-house-construction
https://greenbuildingsolutions.org/green-building-materials/foundations/
https://www.buildinggreen.com/blog/choosing-foundation-materials-subconscious-decision
http://www.buildnaturally.com/EDucate/Articles/RubbleTrench.htm
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